PFV members attending the annual meeting at in Alsace, France
Wine is one of the world’s oldest beverages and many of today’s iconic winemaking families are living archives of centuries of hardship, joy, pain, and success. What do these families with their generations of experience think about today’s pandemic and how do they view the future? I asked the members of Primum Familiae Vini, (“Leading Wine Families”), an international association of 12 legendary winemaking families, to share their thoughts on our global crisis in light of the historic challenges their ancestors faced. The challenges may have been different for each family (from plague to war) but the themes are universal: a willingness to reinvent and pivot to the new normal, and a commitment to endure. For many, their greatest achievements were born in adversity. Their thoughts, edited for brevity, reflect an unflinching assessment of the situation coupled with a remarkable, resolute positivity that focuses on the long view. “Let everything happen to you, beauty and terror, just keep going, no feeling is final.”—Rilke
What challenges did your ancestors face in the past and how did they overcome them?
Jean Frédéric Hugel, Export Director at Famille Hugel (France): Because of our location near Germany’s border our winery has been through wars, changes of nationality, and epidemics. Our ancestors survived; they adapted, but never compromised on quality, never took the easy path, and always kept a long-term vision. When the constant back and forth between France and Germany put the economy of the region on its knees, Jean, and his son,(who is my great grandfather), decided in 1937 to embark on a trip that required five different planes to establish our brand in Australia. Jean, when he passed away, had already paid for the inheritance tax over two generations! Always hope for the best, but be ready for the worst, that could well be our motto. Quite helpful as we speak, I must admit, and looking back gives us strength and motivation to look ahead.
How do your ancestor’s challenges influence the way you see today’s crisis?
Jean Frédéric Hugel: I hope it influences our experience for the best, but I want to make sure I do not regret anything once it is over. Morality pays a huge role in our family, in our way of managing and doing business. We all have our own moral codes of course, but I want to believe my morality will be the same at the end of this crisis as it was at the beginning. It is in everyone’s hands to make a big difference, rarely has that been more true. My ancestors have made the right decisions at the right time without compromising. I wish to say the same when this is done.