Lana Bortolot
Mar 13, 2024
I don’t herald too many of these wine varietal days, but when it comes to Riesling, I make an exception. It is one of the world’s noble grapes and the most versatile. “Noble grapes” are so named for their ability to express their location and terroir and among the six (the others are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc), Riesling is, perhaps the most transparent says sommelier Carrie Lyn Strong, owner of Strong Wine Consulting and an East Coast-based ambassador for Wines of Alsace, a quality production region “particularly known for its ability to translate its Grand Cru terroirs,” she says.
Riesling is made in numerous New and Old World regions: Alsace, Australia, Austria, all throughout Germany, New York State’s Finger Lakes, Oregon and Washington State to name a few. It is one of the most food-friendly and age-worthy wines, some capable of cellaring for decades. Though many consumers believe it to be a sweet wine (and Riesling does make delicious sweet dessert wines), for the most part, they are dry table wines—some searingly and excitingly so.
You won’t want to wait decades to drink these, though and if you need an excuse to start your Riesling discovery, here’s a case to consider:
Riesling from the new and old worlds.
PRODUCERS
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles, 2020 Grand Cru Rosacker, Alsace. This comes from a pioneering biodynamic winery that makes a more modern style of Riesling, while staying true to its character. This is a nerve-y, clean wine full of mineral and acid tension, which calms down into an elegant and elevated wine with ripe orchard fruits (peach, apple) that lend a bit of softness and plush.
Rieslings from France, Austria, Finger Lakes and Australia - PRODUCERS
Domaine Maurice Schoech 2021, Alsace AOC. A friendly entry-level wine made by a family that dates its roots to the 17th century. Starts off with ripe peach then evolves to candied orange rind and ginger notes. It finishes dry, but since there’s a little more residual sugar on this, it’s a good match with spicy foods.
Famille Hugel “Classic” Riesling 2022, Alsace. The label notes this is a wine of “finesse and frankness,” which is pretty much Alsace’s story as well as the story of this 13th-generation family winery. This is the family’s signature Riesling and a terrific gateway into the variety, delivering youthful citrus notes and orchard fruit flavors of apple, peach and pear.